Friday, December 21, 2007

Happy Christmas

We won't be coming back to England this year, so Happy Christmas to all our friends and family. The kids have finished school and are now excitedly looking forward to our first Christmas overseas.

The weather at the moment here is great. Yesterday, we went down to the Plant Souk in Jadaf and bought a load of bedding plants, herbs and tomato plants!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Beware of Jaguars

This happened on the road I drive down every morning after I have dropped Max off at Nursery.

Saturday, November 17, 2007

In the footsteps of Lawrence

I'm just back from a 3 day business trip to Yanbu, near Mecca and Jeddah, in Saudi Arabia. This place was notable for being home to Lawrence of Arabia for a while during the Arab Revolt and is reputedly the home of King Solomon Mines. Now it is an unpleasant small industrial city full of big oil refineries, gas plants and petrochemical works. If there is another reason for going there, it wasn't obvious.

I didn't want to come to Saudi Arabia, and neither did my wife want me to. As I sat in Jeddah airport I mused that the best thing to come out of this country is the Emirates flight to Dubai. However, sometimes, needs must. We really should have sent the woman who is doing the work on the project but, in a country where women still can't drive and have to cover themselves completely, it just isn't possible to get a visa.

The journey over was very difficult. Heavy fog meant a hazardous late night drive over to Abu Dhabi airport only to find that airport was closed to all flights. Can someone please tell me why a modern airliner cannot take off in fog? These things practically fly themselves and radar tells you where all other planes are. I genuinely can't understand it, but assume it must be something to do with pilots not trusting computers. We finally took off almost 10 hours late after an uncomfortable night trying to grab some sleep. Why the hell can't the airline call you and tell you not to come when they know the place is closed and doesn't look like re-opening? Better for everyone surely?

On the plane I felt like I was travelling to a Ghandi convention. It was full of Indian muslims, dressed in towelling robes, making their obligatory once in a lifetime pilgrimage to Mecca (known as the Haj and Umrah). Jeddah is the nearest airport and the numbers who come here, around two million per year, are staggering. For the full duration of the two and a half hour flight, the Imam chanted ceaselessly, gasping only occasionally for breath. Thankfully, business class passengers were excused the incantation.

The late departure of the plane meant that the connecting flight to Yanbu had gone. The only option was a 350km taxi ride. I was wary of this and always like travel plans to be made well in advance and pre-booked 'in-Kingdom' (as expats refer to it). Although the Saudis are boastful of recent successes against terrorists, it was still in my mind that attacks on westerners are not unheard of and, indeed, seven people were shot dead at the refinery I was visiting in 2004.

Security is all around you. There are police check points on every major road and you have to stop, and occasionally show your passport. Expat hotels are surrounded by barbed wire and guarded by police cars. Security at the refinery was even tighter with many, many armed police with machine guns. I got the impression they wouldn't hesitate to use them.

The taxi driver was a Saudi, probably in his late sixties, with a terrible cataract in one eye and a squint in the other. He didn't know where he was going and he spoke no English whatsoever. This, coupled with the appalling standard of driving (much worse than Dubai), filled me with dread. However, he got us there with very little incident, although when he pulled off the road in the middle of nowhere I was worried he was calling up his Al-Qaeda brothers in arms. Visions of kneeling in an orange jump suit on Al Jazeera flashed through my mind. The truth was, as usual, more prosaic. He only wanted to pray and chuck his rubbish into the desert!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

View from the top


This is the view from the top of the world's tallest building, the Burj Dubai, when it was 134 stories, or about 550m, high. It is now nearer 160 and there is still a way to go. The final projected height is thought to be 818m.

To give an idea of scale, the other skyscrapers in the picture are around 50 stories (the height of Canary Wharf tower).

Friday, October 19, 2007

Breast Cancer Fashion Show

October is international breast cancer awareness month. Last night we went to a breast cancer survivors fashion show at the upmarket BurJuman shopping mall in Bur Dubai. The show starred our friend Jan (above), with guest appearances from sons Jamie (below) and Joe, and husband Craig.

Jan has just finished a long course of chemotherapy and is now starting a course of radiotherapy in Abu Dhabi. She has remained brave and courageous throughout, kept her sense of humour and perspective, and has impressed us all with her determination to get through it.



I pushed my way to the front with the paparazzi and the TV cameras and had a good time taking loads of pictures (the event was a good excuse to treat myself to a new flash gun!).

Last week was half term in Dubai to coincide with the Eid holidays. We made the 5 hour trip (thanks to painfully slow officials at the visa office) to Muscat and the Intercontinental Hotel. Muscat is a pleasant enough place. Greener and cooler than Dubai, it was strange to see fields of crops and tractors in the countryside en-route. There is very little traffic and the sand, which is all pervasive in Dubai, was mostly absent.




However, I don't think we'll go back again on holiday. Oman is a much more conservative place than the Emirates - women do cover up in public - and has little to offer the tourist with a young family other than the swimming pool and beach. We have plenty of these in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, and of a better quality than the hotel we stayed in.

I've blogged before about newspapers and how they give you a good idea about the state of democracy and free speech in a country. Omani newspapers are much like the ones in the rest of the region. One particular front page story in the Times of Oman on Tuesday went along the lines of 'His Highness Sultan Qaboos bin Said today received a letter of thanks from Sheikh Blah-Blah thanking him for his kind Eid wishes'. Riveting stuff, but journalists in the middle east are not allowed to criticise basically anyone in authority. The penalties are usually jail terms, but in a welcome move in Dubai, Sheikh Mohammed (the ruler of Dubai) has decreed that journalists should not be sent to jail for 'reasons related to their work'. I hope it also applies to bloggers since there have been cases here of people being jailed for defamation on internet sites.

Sunday, October 07, 2007

Ramadan ramblings

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar and we're now into the last week before Eid - the three day celebration at the end. Last year, Ramadan was a very hard time for us. We were trying to furnish a home from scratch and we didn't really know our way around. We didn't know that it was alright for the kids to eat and drink. Although there is no eating and drinking in public for adults during daylight, we now know that it is always possible to find somewhere that's open if you know where to look. There is no alcohol before 7pm - the Bailey's cheescake was off limits last week when we went to the golf club for lunch - but this is very moderate by middle east standards and most countries in the region are completely dry during Ramadan.

The weather has definitely cooled down now and the AC doesn't need to be on full tilt all the time. Last months bill for electricity and water was nearly £300, but that will soon drop to more reasonable levels. One sure sign of cooler weather is that the kids are now playing out at school every day. The equivalent of what we used to call a 'wet break' at school is a 'red break' here (i.e. over 40 degrees).

Next week is half term and we're going to Muscat in Oman for a few days holiday. I've only heard positive things about the place, and I'm really looking forward to the break.

I've been enjoying teaching myself how to use Photoshop. Even the lousiest photo can be made into something useful. The pic below is one I've done of a friend's daughter and had blown up into a poster for them. Andy Warhol eat your heart out.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Pace of change

I recently came across these 2 photos. The first shows Sheikh Zayed Road near the Trade Centre in 1991.

The second is more recent, but even this is out of date. There is almost nowhere else on earth where you can watch a city grow up around you at such an amazing speed.

Saturday, September 01, 2007

Chastised

I've been told off by mother for not updating the blog or phoning her often enough. As I explained to her, this is mainly because nothing of note has really happened since we got back from Australia. It has been hot. We've spent a lot of time indoors and the children have been increasingly badly behaved. They are back at school tomorrow and Max is starting at nursery full time. I've now managed to get the cheap calls back by cunning use of something called a VPN (virtual private network) which links you securely to a server beyond the reach of the local proxy server (censor).

We had some drama last week when, after a long brunch at the JW Marriott, Max caught his hand in a faulty lift door. He got a nasty cut in his finger which needed three stitches. It was all a bit traumatic as we were sent from one hospital to another, I got us lost trying to find it, and he was very distressed by the stitches and had to be sedated. Thankfully he is fine now and had his stitches out, after charming all the nurses all week when they changed his dressings, yesterday.

I have made my first tentative steps back to playing golf after having met a couple of people who play at the Montgomerie golf club. It is an extremely smart place and the waiting list is so long they aren't accepting any more names. I've used the practice facilities and am now looking forward to my first round (now that I've scrounged a set of clubs off another friend).

After having sacked our maid just before going to Australia, we have now hired a full time, live-in, maid from Sri Lanka called Harshi. Apparently she was a graphic designer in Sri Lanka but has been working more profitably in Dubai as a housemaid. At the end of the interview, we asked her when she could start. "Now, Madam" she said. And she meant it - all her worldly goods were in the taxi waiting outside - and she promptly moved in. I am finding it strange having someone else living in the house, but I imagine I'll get used to it, and it is good to have babysitting on tap.

If it all works out with Harshi then we will take over her sponsorship from the Local (i.e. Emirati) who is currently sponsoring her. This will cost us about 7,000 Dhs (around £1,000) per year. There is a bit of a racket here in that Locals can sponsor twenty or so people for next to nothing. These people then pay a fat fee to their sponsor and then go and work illegally for expats like us. The government has just had an amnesty for illegal workers so that they can either legalise their status or leave without fear of prison. There are estimated to be 350,000 illegal workers and the queues at the immigration place have to be seen to be believed. One of the problems is that people come in on visit visas, ostensibly to visit family, but in reality to find work. Once their visa has expired there is a fine of 100 Dhs per day. Since most maids/labourers earn less than 50 Dhs per day the fine soon mounts and they can't afford to leave and have to stay and work illegally.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Anniversary

It's now exactly a year since we packed our bags and flew out to Dubai. It hasn't been easy, but we all now think of this of home. I've just renewed the rent on the villa (you have to pay a whole year in advance) so we're here for at least another year. The Dubai housing market has gone completely mad and if we were arriving now we wouldn't be able to afford anything like the villa that we're in (two bedroom flats are going for the same money - £2,000 per month).

The weather has been extremely hot in the last few weeks, although apparently the summer is now more than half way through. "Mercury highs in the high 40s will decline to around 35C starting October and just above 30C by November", said Worger (Met Office forecaster). In spite of this, it is still possible to go out. We spent today at Dreamland water park and had a great time.

Anyway, if it gets too hot you can always go to the Chill Out bar - completely made of ice. There's another video on YouTube from SecretDubai which is uncannily like my typical drive to and from work every day.

Monday, July 30, 2007

Justice - Dubai Style

I don't intend this blog to become political in any way, but I was shocked to read these 2 stories side by side in this mornings newspaper. Draw your own conclusions.

Dubai - Brits jailed for drugs
Two British men have each been sentencd to four years in prison after being found in possesion of small amounts of hashish while entering the UAE through Dubai International Airport last month.
The actual amounts of hashish were 0.11g and 1.18g.

Dubai - Drunken motorist locked up

Dubai - A UAE national was jailed for one year and fined dhs5,000 for hitting a motorcyclist and killing him while driving his car drunk.

Monday, July 23, 2007

Back from Oz

We've just returned from holiday on the Gold Coast in Australia. Although they are having an extremely cold winter, so they said, it was still warm enough to be on the beach every day.

We stayed with our friends Jim, Sarah, Megan, Gareth and baby Ellen who emigrated a few years ago. Unfortunately, Jim was very ill and in hospital for most of our stay. He is suffering from the long term effects of Bilharzia contracted whilst a child in Africa. Thankfully, after some worrying moments, he now seems to be on the mend.

In spite of Jim being in hospital, we still managed to have a good time. It's easy to see why people emigrate to Australia and don't come back. The climate is excellent, the people relaxed and friendly and everything is very familiar. Unlike the Middle East, there is no culture shock for the expat brit.

We went up the Sunshine Coast for a few days to visit Steve Irwin's zoo. There are some great resorts with beautiful beaches and great surf - we particularly liked Noosa.




We had a good day out catching mud crabs in the river, feeding the pelicans, and fishing using yabbies (shrimps) which we pumped from the river bed.


Lucy had a great time at the Circus School at the hotel we stayed at in Coolum.



By Dubai standards the sea was a bit chilly so we all bought wetsuits.

Thursday, July 05, 2007

Exodus

This blog entry comes to you from 30,000ft on an Emirates plane bound for Brisbane. Youngest son Max has finally gone to sleep and Lucy and Ben are playing hangman. Janet is reading a chick-flick. In short, for the time being, everyone is happy.

School has now finished for an eight week period and Dubai's expatriate population has started the mass exodus to escape the summer heat. The shops are noticeably quieter and all hotels are advertising very cheap deals. However, yesterday was the first day of Salik ("the new road toll system for Dubai"). Salik means cameras at both of the busy ends of Sheikh Zayed Road (near the Mall of the Emirates and Garhoud Bridge in case you're interested) which charge you the princely sum of 4Dhs per crossing. The idea, apparently, is to reduce congestion on Dubai's main artery and raise 600 million Dhs every year to invest in further infrastructure improvements. The first aim was achieved. SZR, as it is known locally, was empty. Every other road, however, was gridlocked. We only got to the shops courtesy of some improvised off-road driving in the back streets of Barsha. Of course, it's early days yet, and it's clear that many people haven't the necessary tags for their windscreens yet. I'm hoping things will have improved by the time we get back in three weeks time.

We're going to stay with old friends who live near the Gold Coast in Australia, and we're all very excited about it. I'll try and post some pictures in the coming weeks.

Postscript – we landed at Brisbane Airport at the same time as they were arresting someone suspected of being involved in the Glasgow Airport bomb attack attempting to fly out of the country. Apparently, six local doctors on the Gold Coast are implicated.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Verre-y Nice Indeed

Last week was pretty good on the food front. I had a couple of colleagues visiting from the UK which meant dining at their expense. We ate at Ushna, a smart Indian restaurant in the Madinat, and Beachcombers, an excellent Thai/Malay buffet, in the Jumeirah Beach Hotel.

Friday was my birthday and as a special treat we had booked to go to Verre - Gordon Ramsay's first restaurant outside the UK - in the Hilton on the Creek. First impressions of the room were that it was perfectly ordinary. No worry, we hadn't come for the interior design, and the restaurant has been Time Out's best restaurant in Dubai for the past 2 years. It was also the only Dubai restaurant in the recently published world top 100 restaurants.

The Maitre d' was a perfectly charming Frenchman and it was hard to resist his invitation to a glass of champagne to start. I had the full 7 course Menu Prestige and every single thing about it was flawless. Service was impeccable and the whole experience was relaxing and enjoyable. To cap things off, thanks to a passing acquaintance with the Head Chef (whose kids are also in Lucy's school), all of the drinks were complimentary. All in all, probably the best meal I have ever eaten, matched only by a couple of meals at Marco Pierre White restaurants in London.

Now, it's back to the treadmill...

Monday, June 18, 2007

Hottest place on earth ...

... according to our UK neighbours anyway, who saw it on Sky News so it must be true. It certainly felt that way last night at the Hash - a one hour run at night in temperatures in the mid-thirties. It was 45 degrees today and it's not high summer yet.

I still haven't got a hash 'name', but it'll probably be something traffic related. Janet reversed the Durango into a little car that she couldn't see yesterday and squashed it. I then made the mistake of telling a fellow hasher that we have now collectively had 6 car accidents in 11 months. Another hasher has accused me of kerb crawling her, at the top of her drunken voice, when I slowed down to offer her lift so that's a likely candidate as well. At least it would be better than Ker-ching - the harsh hash name of a young south east Asian lady married to a middle age Aussie!

I had another culture shock when one of the local Emirati hashers, Little Mo, brought his two small under-fives, and ran off and left them in the middle of nowhere for an hour! They were still there when I left at ten o'clock. Keeping children up late is very common here though - there'll be kids in the malls even at midnight.

Nightlife in Dubai seems to revolve around (apparently) famous DJs performing in trendy clubs. There is the odd headline big act (Shakira, Roger Waters and Aerosmith being the most recent) but generally not much. Last weekend, however, we went to see 'Whose Line is it Anyway?' at the theatre. I recognised three of the five from the TV show. As they said, the only difference is that there is no 'little fat (expletive deleted) in the corner'. Although it didn't all work, generally it was very funny and we had a good time. My favourite game was when one of them left the room and then had to guess what he did for a living suggested by the audience (UAE censor using lilac highlighter, in a shed, of modern parenting and architectural review magazines). Quite bizarre.

I've also just read that Dubai has bought the QE2. It's going to be refurbished and permanently docked at the Palm Jumeirah. Some people have cynically suggested that this will be the way to introduce a casino in a Muslim country since it will be 'offshore'. I wouldn't be surprised, but I preferred the other suggestion that it is, in fact, a giant lifeboat in case the Palm sinks.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

The Times They Are A-Changin

The newspapers in the UAE are, almost without exception, bland and asinine. The two main broadsheets, the Gulf News and the Khaleej Times contain lots of coverage of local events but essentially nothing by the way of real news. In their defence, it can't be an easy place to be a journalist. There are strict restrictions on what can and can't be stated in public. Any critisicm of the Royal Family, for example, is strictly taboo. The internet is also heavily censored and any number of sites are blocked for "contravening the political, religious, moral, social and economic values of the United Arab Emirates". Much to most expats annoyance, these sites include Skype and any form of cheap internet telephony. The cost of international phone calls here is ruinous.

British newspapers are widely available in Dubai, but always a day after the event and at a prohibitive price. The Sunday Times, for example, is a fiver. I can access the websites but it really isn't the same as sitting down with the printed version. So, I was really pleased to discover that The Times has now launched a locally printed version for a more reasonable pound a day. Unfortunately, it doesn't include the second section but I can manage to live without the TV schedules and reviews of opera in London. More importantly, it has sudoku and the crossword for my more cerebral wife. I was able yesterday to scoff with the rest of the UK at the new 'Marmite' logo for the 2012 Olympics, read the obituaries of minor judges and a review of Gordon Brown's new biographical book by Matthew Parris. Whilst Matthew Parris was dismissive of what he called 'clumsy thinking', all I could wonder was where the Prime Minister in waiting finds time to write books between running the economy, all that New(ish) Labour politicking and his young family? I barely seem to be managing a blog a month.

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Mercury rising

Here's the promised pic of me, Peter Schmeichel and assorted children.

It has been hard to find things to blog about. Not much has happened in my life outside of work, shopping and going to the swimming pool. Today I should have been representing Lucy's school in a beach rugby tournament in Ras Al Khaimah. I'd been to the training sessions, bought some pool shoes to stop the sand burning my feet, but at the last minute it was inexplicably cancelled. Slightly deflated, we went instead to a beach club just over the border into Abu Dhabi called the Jazira Beach Club.

Although it's only May, and entry is much cheaper than the Dubai clubs, there was a strange end of season atmosphere about the place. The grass was unkempt, the fountains had been emptied and the beach cafe was all locked up. Apart from the fact that it was 42 degrees, it felt like I'd gone to a small English seaside town in December. It was almost deserted. A few people came and went, but generally we had the large pool to ourselves. I asked the barman at the pool bar if it was always this quiet. 'No', he said,'it will get busy again in September when the temperature starts to fall'.

September seems a long way off. On Thursday we went to a very beautiful and serene bar and restaurant called Eauzone. It is in a hotel called the One and Only Royal Mirage. Although it is apparently much favoured by footballers and soap stars, we didn't let that put us off. We sat outside and I nearly choked on my beer as I paid for the first drinks (£9 a pint!). Anyway, what the hell - if that's the price of keeping the riff raff out then so be it. After a short while we were forced inside by the heat and hunidity. The weather people here say that it's going to be a scorching summer. I don't think we'll be sat outside again much for the next few months. I'm sure you'll all be sympathetic!

For the purposes of posterity, I've decided to list a few of the things going on in Dubai at the moment.

  • There was another big construction fire this week - this time on the Palm Jumeriah. Great publicity!

  • A smoking ban was announced for public places. Great, I thought, until I read that this is the fourth time in as many years that this has been announced and not implemented.
  • A new interchange near our house finally opened (after well over a year of construction) and has knocked about 30 minutes off my daily drive. However, thanks to extraordinarily inept planning, it's going to have to be rebuilt soon because of all the new apartments opening up in the Marina.
  • There is a big thing about number plates here, but it's all to do with how low the number is. A man in Abu Dhabi this week paid a world record 25.2 million Dirhams (£3.5 million) for the number 5. He also paid a couple of million quid more for 45 and 55.
  • Wednesday, April 25, 2007

    Making the most of the weather

    Perhaps it's a British thing, but I can't help feeling the urge to be out doing something and 'making the most of the weather' when the sun is shining. This is understandable in England when a sunny day may well be followed by torrential rain for a fortnight at any time of year, but less so in Dubai where sunshine is now more or less guaranteed for the foreseeable. Anyway, we started off last weekend at the Montgomery Golf Club, with some friends and a hoard of kids, for tea (I mean tea in the northern sense of the word, i.e. the meal at around 5 o'clock). There was a man sitting at the table we really wanted and I realised that the enormous frame belonged to Peter Schmeichel who had obviously just finished playing and was having a drink. Janet was vaguely familiar with the name (because of Chesney's great dane in Corrie) but our friend Jan, who is a big football fan, was practically struck dumb and rushed off home for her camera. I asked him for a picture with the kids but he grabbed hold of me and passed the camera to his friend. I'll post the pic just as soon as Jan figures out where her new camera hides them on her computer.


    I'd promised the kids that I'd take them to Wild Wadi at Easter, but we never got round to it. I made good on the promise last weekend. Wild Wadi is a waterpark between Jumeriah Beach Hotel and the Burj Al Arab. It is spectacular and there isn't the usual tiresome walking up steps to reach the slides; high powered water jets propel you up to the top, where there follows a series of roller coaster type rides. We all loved it.

    Just booked our holidays. We're off to stay with friends on the Gold Coast in Australia for 3 weeks in July. I'm really looking forward to the promised canoe trip out to see the migrating humpback whales.

    Wednesday, April 11, 2007

    What I did on my holidays

    The kids have had to write a diary of what they did on their holiday so I thought I'd have a go as well, although no doubt it won't be as well written or illustrated.

    The last month or so has been incredibly busy at work as we seem to be winning more and more business. The amount of things to do has been a bit overwhelming and I had really been looking forward to some friends visiting and taking a week off at Easter.

    It didn't start particularly well. The first day saw drizzle and cloud and the second a strong Shamal creating an unpleasant sandstorm. After that, however, the weather was sunny, cloud free and glorious in the low to mid thirties. The temperature is now heading inexorably to the insufferable heat of summer and so it was good to make the most of perfect holiday weather (to give you an idea, as I write now at 9 o'clock in the evening, the temperature outside is a sticky 32 degrees).

    Much food and drink was consumed. Dubai has an institution known as Friday Brunch and the best one is at the Mina A'Salaam. From 12.30 to 4.00 our glasses never emptied of Jacob's Creek Rose Fizz. The quantity and range of food on offer was staggering and unlike anything I have ever experienced before.

    We had another 'all you can eat buffet' at the Al Hadeerah restaurant at the impressive Bab Al Shams hotel in the desert. This is an Arabic restaurant with the dubious entertainment of an arabic chanteuse, a whirling dervish, belly dancer, camel rides, henna hand painting and the like. The thing that impressed me the most though was the 4,000 torches that lit the approach (apparently it takes 3 men, 3 hours every day to light them all).

    There is a real shortage of public beaches in Dubai and our usual haunt at Jebel Ali has now been closed as it will form part of an ambitious project called Dubai Waterfront. The scale of this development, even by Dubai standards, is staggering (bigger than Manhattan or Beirut the website crows). Dubai's beach hotels, of course, don't want freeloaders ruining the experience for their guests so charge handsomely for the privilige of allowing you to use their facilities. We had 2 days at the very good Jebel Ali Hotel - at £4 a pint and a couple of quid for a bottle of water, I wouldn't fancy the bar bill when checking out after 2 weeks.

    Our friends, who are well travelled, weren't really quite sure what to make of Dubai. It wasn't like anywhere they'd been before. They were surprised by the scale and at the amount of construction and the associated mess. However, they, like me, were impressed by the vision and ambition. Clearly, all that glitters here is not gold (especially with respect to the way construction workers are treated) but it is showing the rest of the world what can be achieved with imagination, creativity and self-belief.

    Wednesday, March 14, 2007

    Sports Day

    The kids had their sports days last week. They started at 8.00 and were finished before it got too hot at 9.30. I've bought a new telephoto lens for my camera and enjoyed taking loads of pictures. This one, of a boy called Ziad in Lucy's class is my favourite. As Janet pointed out, it's a shame I can't take such good photos of my own children. Anyway, both events were really well organised and the kids had a great time.



    I finally got my new car today after 7 months in Dubai. It's a black 7 seat Pajero (a brand spanker as well - see previous post) and I'm very pleased with it. Janet pronounced it underpowered, which it is compared to the Durango (190hp to 340hp). And this from someone who spent years in a nasty 1.2 litre Vauxhall Nova.

    Janet has finally got a job as a Supply Teacher at the kids school and will be there full time until at least half term. I've already noticed a difference to our finances - not because of what she's earning, but the reduction in how much we're spending on 'coffee, cake' (as Max says everytime he sees a Starbucks!).

    Monday, March 05, 2007

    A sour taste

    At the weekend we went to a restaurant called Tang at Le Meridien Mina Seyahi. In spite of Chris Eubank and Calum Best staying there, it is a very good hotel. Apparently, Tang is 'a gem for the discerning food lover who is passionate about ultimate sensual dining experiences in style.'

    The restaurant has set itself up in the manner of Heston Blumenthal at
    The Fat Duck or Ferran Adria at, reportedly the world's best restaurant, El Bulli on the Costa Brava. However, chocolate dusted scallops with bits of froth and cod ice cream didn't do it for Janet who declared it to be 'pretentious c**p'. I found a lot of the food to be excellent but agreed with her about the wine list which was a sheet of red acrylic which couldn't be read without the help of a torch.

    The bill came to 700Dhs (£100) per couple. Not too bad since, as I am constantly reminded by my UK colleagues, we are now on a tax free, fat cat, expat 'package'. However, an event earlier in the day put it into perspective that we aren't all living the dream in Dubai.

    Four hundred construction workers blocked the traffic on Sheikh Zayed Road - Dubai's busiest and most lethal. They had the temerity to claim that they deserve 27 Dhs per day rather than the 25 Dhs they presently earn. 2Dhs is 28 pence. All in all, the earn about 600 Dhs (£85) per month on average. Most of them will have paid large sums of money to an agent in their home country to get to Dubai in the first place and will then send most of it home to support their families. No wonder there weren't any construction workers in Tang. I can't imagine this was part of the Ruler's Wise Vision.

    Tuesday, February 27, 2007

    Carnage on the Al Khail Road


    On Sunday morning Dubai was covered in a thick blanket of fog. Apparently there were 150 traffic accidents. My usual 15 minutes to work on the Al Khail Road took over 2 hours. During that time I saw the wreckage of eight multi-vehicle pile-ups. In spite of the obvious problems there were still people driving way too fast, without lights, tailgating and flashing at cars to move out of the way (big problem here but not illegal). How there were no reported fatalities is beyond me - these were some of the worst crashes I have ever seen.

    I arrived at work grateful to still be in one piece and it has finally persuaded me to get a big 4x4 instead of something sporty. I think it's going to be a Mitsubishi Pajero - it's called the Shogun in Europe (apparently because pajero means w****r in Spanish!). The list price for this car is £24k in the UK. Here, and even allowing for the strong pound, it is so much cheaper at just over £12k. I've got no idea how this can be, but demonstrates just how expensive motoring is in the UK compared to the UAE. In spite of going up by over 30% last year, petrol in the Emirates is still about 5x cheaper and there is no road tax. Insurance is fixed at about 5% of the car's value if you have no no-claims and 3.8% if you have. Service is a bit different too - there is always an attendant to fill you up, he cleans your windows and often hands out free boxes of tissues for some reason I haven't yet fathomed. As far as I can tell, there is no such thing as a diesel car here.

    Saturday, February 24, 2007

    Mad dogs and Englishmen

    It's been a while. Just recently I haven't got round to blogging because either nothing exciting has happened, I've been too tired, too drunk, or a combination of all three.

    Max had his second birthday this week - many thanks to all who sent cards and presents. He had a great time opening all his presents. He has been a bit under the weather recently, having had a couple of chest infections, but seems to be better now.

    Yesterday I got a team of 4 together for the 13th Creek Relay. This was a 35km run around the Dubai Creek. We called ourselves 'Dubai Creaks', a little unfair on Robin and Vicky who are in their twenties, but we did really well and came in fourth in the Open category. It was hot, around 30 degrees, and everyone found it incredibly hard even though it was only about 5 miles each. Afterwards there was beer and a barbeque at the Darjeeling Cricket Club. This was a typically English cricket club other than the huge roller that came out to roll the baked sand outfield and not the wicket (which was artificial). Things were marred slightly by Janet crashing the car into a water tanker on the way home. Thankfully, it was a very slow speed affair, there isn't much damage to the car, and the police were very good and sympathetic. Insurance may prove more problematic - the policy we got via the car dealer is all in arabic. We can't even find a phone number!

    We have now been in Dubai for 6 months and I am embarrassed by my lack of arabic skills. You feel it most acutely in the occasional encounters with Emiratis (mostly the police!). If, say, we had moved to France or Spain I would have expected to have become quite proficient in the language and eventually become fluent. That isn't likely here. There is almost no incentive to learn the language. English speaking expats significantly outnumber arabic speakers, who nearly all speak english anyway. Even if I do take lessons there are very few opportunities to practice.

    Monday, February 12, 2007

    On On to the Hash

    Last night I took part in the Dubai Desert Hash. I'd never heard of this before in the UK but apparently there are over 1700 hash clubs worldwide . Effectively, it is a running club with a drinking problem, or a drinking club with a running problem depending on your point of view.

    A trail is laid by a 'hare' and you run around in a pack trying to follow it. There are numerous false trails and dead ends to ensure that the faster runners don't get too far ahead from the slower runners. You have to shout 'On On' if you are on the trail to guide the others. Last nights run, which is a stop/start affair, lasted 55 minutes. Afterwards there were a couple of speeches, punishments (beer down in one, sitting on a big block of ice, icy water poured over head - the usual tame rugby club sort of thing), and then a really good Philipino curry. I really enjoyed it and will probably go again. The only worry is what name they'll come up with for me. Most are completely disgusting and I can't reproduce them here, but others are quite funny (one thin guy is known as 9st cowboy).

    Wednesday, February 07, 2007

    Winter's gone

    I reported on 21st November that winter is here. Today the temperature reached 30 degrees again and isn't going any lower than 20 degrees. No more need for the duvet but the aircon will have to come on again soon.

    The kids school had their 'summer' fayre last week as soon it will be too hot for such an event. Ben was pretty pleased to win the prize for best hat - and so he should have been, it took us hours to make! Lucy's was pretty good too but she couldn't compete against the replica Burj al Arab hat.


    Saturday, February 03, 2007

    Living the Dream - part 2


    Cirque du soleil was excellent - better than expected - and got the weekend off to a good start. On Friday we went to the Lakes, close to where we live, with some friends for a really good brunch and the added bonus of a licensed bar and England salvaging a bit of pride by beating Australia and preventing a tour whitewash.

    I went to the third round of the Dubai Desert Classic Golf tournament today. They didn't like you taking pictures, and I kept being asked where my press photo permit was, but when I came across Tiger Woods I couldn't resist. I only watched him at one hole but he hit a magnificent tee shot 220 yards to within a couple of feet for an easy birdie. The world's best ever golfer? Maybe. Certainly the richest.

    Dubai certainly seems to be the favoured destination of sportsmen. Michael Schuhmacher and Roger Federer were also at the golf and Thierry Henry came later for the launch of yet another Gillette shaving product at the Jumeirah Beach Hotel.

    Wednesday, January 31, 2007

    Living the Dream

    Last weekend (which, of course, is Friday and Saturday here now) we went to a really good Chinese restaurant called Zheng He's to celebrate a friends 40th birthday. The food was the best chinese I've ever had and the location was spectacular. It wasn't cheap, but not outrageously expensive, although I was a bit upset at being charged 180 Dirhams for a bottle of wine which we can buy in our local booze store for 20 Dirhams. As our friend regularly points out when the bill arrives, 'that's the price of living the dream'. And, all in all, it's a price worth paying. Tomorrow evening the dream continues, at a cost of 800 Dirhams this time, when we're going to see Cirque du Soleil at Ibn Battuta mall. I'll let you know if it was worth it.


    This is the view from my office (until next week when we move into a bigger one at the back of the building ovelooking Jumeirah and out to sea). It's called Emirates Towers and is a bit of an improvement on the view of the Manchester Ship Canal from my old office in Warrington. The hotel is very chic and there is a great bar on the 51st floor (in the triangular bit on the right) called Vu's. It's where I took Janet when I wanted to persuade her to come and live here. It did the trick (and she isn't normally easily impressed).

    The UAE won the Gulf Cup yesterday beating Oman 1-0 in the final. It's the first time they've ever won it and the locals have all been very excited. This was my favourite pic from the newspaper coverage.


    Often, it's easy to forget that you're not living in a western country and culture. Then you read a story like this from the neighbouring Emirate of Ajman.

    Ajman: The Federal Supreme Court is looking into the
    case of a man who was found guilty of having illicit affairs with his four stepdaughters and sentenced to death by stoning

    The four women involved have already had their sentence of 80 lashes each carried out for 'allowing their stepfather to sleep with them' even though they were teenagers at the time, said he threatened them with a knife, and he admitted his guilt at all stages.

    Tuesday, January 23, 2007

    January blues?

    Not here! I always think of January as a long and miserable month but it certainly hasn't been this year in Dubai for us.


    We've settled back into the usual routine of early starts for school (7.30!) and work. The weather has been a bit mixed, but generally it's warm and pleasant. Nothing compared to the storms battering the UK.

    All 18 of the local swimming pools apparently have 'faults' with the heaters and the water is freezing - ironic since they have to chill them in summer. As a result we've been going to the beach most weekends and the parks here are also really good with boating lakes, playgrounds, funfairs and camel rides.

    The tallest building in the background is the Burj Dubai, which last week topped 100 floors and is now already the fifth tallest in the world. It will be the tallest by some distance when it's finished. I hope they've given more thought to fire safety than the company constructing the tower in Jumeirah Lake Towers, quite close to our house, that caught fire last week. Four men died and 60 more suffered serious injuries. Rescue efforts were haphazard and the emergency services were also held up by passers by parking up to get out and have a good look. Apparently all of the injured men in hospital were really worried that they weren't going to get paid for being off work as this would affect their families back home (mostly in India). After quite a bit of publicity the company has announced that they'll pay 12 years wages to the deceased families. This will probably amount to around £15k per person. Not a lot for a life.
    There was another story in today's paper about a scaffold collapse which killed one man. Construction safety standards here are absolutely lamentable.

    Tuesday, January 16, 2007

    Dubai 10K

    Last weekend was the Dubai marathon and 10k. In spite of a lack of training and over indulgence at Christmas, I managed to get round in just under 55 minutes. As this picture shows, I look more like I've just finished the marathon (well, you try running over 6 miles at 7 in the morning!).

    One of the best things about living here is definitely the climate. Although it's mid-winter, we've been down to the (nearly deserted) beach for the past couple of weekends and it's great having the 4x4 to be able to drive down to the water's edge.

    I still haven't managed to get a car and am back in a hire car after a couple of weeks risking the crazy cab drivers to work and back. I almost bought a Dodge Charger but backed out at the last minute after Janet turned her nose up at it and I had some nagging doubts after the test drive about it being a bit under-powered (after all, it only has 250BHP from a 3.5L engine and I can't afford the 5.7 or 6L versions!). It still remains favourite but I'm also looking at some 4x4s. There are some pretty bad stories about crashes involving small cars, and you do feel very vulnerable in a saloon car when a Nissan Armada (bigger than the Spanish fleet!) cuts you up with the owner on his mobile not noticing you're there.

    Monday, January 01, 2007

    Happy New Year

    A very happy new year to you all. We're now back from our trip to England and have finally thawed out and caught up with lost sleep. However, I think my liver may take slightly longer to recover after a few days with the very hospitable Paul, Julie, Rox and Alexandra.




    The karaoke versions of 'Fairytale of New York', my favourite Christmas song, were fantastic. Even I had a go (anyone who knows me will have an inkling as to the amount of inebriation involved).


    The trip back was hard work with the increased security at Manchester and the number of people going off on skiing trips. I hope they weren't going to the Alps since I noticed as we passed over that there was practically no snow at all.

    The weather here, in stark contrast to winter in West Lancs, is idyllic - a lovely 23 degrees and we had lunch and played most of the day in the garden (the first time I've done that on January 1st).

    Father Christmas delivered an olympic size trampoline for some reason - the kids haven't had a look in.